The Coastal Svalbard expedition is now complete. Leader Jamie Abbey has returned to the BSES office team and is telling us amazing tales of the arctic. We hope to hear from the YEs and see their photos before long!

Sea kayak entry, By Kallan Marshall

Our kayaking adventure started with 10 slightly anxious YEs paddling out into the picturesque fjord, complete with a stunning glacier backdrop. Spending a few hours working on our kayaking technique, we were lucky enough to see many a curious sea.

The real adventure, however, began the next day away from the comforts of advance base camp. Away from the comforts of our base camp we adjusted to the new leaders as well as the different camp routine. We were also introduced to the “joy” of smokey fire water [the burnt taste of water prepared on a camp stove or fire].

The next day, we paddled to the fascinating abandoned Soviet mining town of Pyramidden. It was eerie yet enlightening as we got to see the scene of a remote mining settlement in the extreme arctic. We felt like we’d stepped into a time capsule.

We then proceeded down Billefjorden toward Bird Island. Over the expedition we all did bird count surveys. The next day we kayaked to Bjonahamna (pictured above). Due to arduous circumstances, James capsized on the rough seas, and Flo was sea-sick, but both were helped along by the rest of the group.

After a welll earned rest day, half the group enjoyed a hike with some floral classification work, and were lucky enough to see a beautiful and rare Svalbard poppy. The other half took in the sights at the end of the glacier at Templefjorden, though they were caught off guard by a strong cross wind.

The final leg back to Longyearbyen was then accessed by way of our first camp, including a winter olympics (events included animal impersonations and bum sleighing). The next camp we got caught in a blizzard and woke up to a covering of snow!! Awesome but freezing.

We then proceeded to the final camp across Adventfjorden, to Lonyearbyen. The weather was perfect and a fun time was spent around the campfire on our last night spent away from civilisation. The final day we battled strong winds and large waves on our way back to Longyearbyen campsite. After some dramatic landings we saw that we were almost home. (Below- kayakers amid deep swell near the coast of Svalbard.)

YE Theo Borgvin-Weiss reports from his mountaineering phase of expedition- A cold but dry morning signaled the next phase of expedition -about one week ago now.   Mountaineering phase began with a quick breakfast and a well rehearsed packing of all our kit, including sleeping gear, mountaineering equipment, and all the warm clothing. We were on our way at about 7am.

Having spent a few days at the base camp we were all keen to get up to ice camp and then onto the glacier itself. The ascent to ice camp was mostly over moraines, mainly large unstable rocks that roll and tumble underfoot. The trek into ice camp also involved crossing icebridges which we did during an unrelenting downpour that lasted the entire journey up to ice camp. On reaching camp however, spirits were high, and we soon pitched up tents and settled down for a night on the snow.

The next morning we set off for the glacier, around 40 minutes walk from camp. The weather was bright and the sun made an unexpected appearance as we reached the glacier. We spent the day conducting a variety of scientific experiments–taking samples and photographing cryoconites. (see photo above)

The sheer beauty of the glacier had quite an awesome affect on the whole fire. And with the bright sun this “white wilderness” stretched for endless miles around us. After an eventful day we returned to camp to face an evening of high winds and heavy rain. We’re all discovering very quickly just how swiftly the weather here can change, shifting from one extreme to another within a few hours.

That evening everyone’s tents took a lashing as high winds and rain tore through our camp. Renditions of 90s pop hits undercut the winds, as we all sat it out in our tents. Every two hours, two unlucky souls had to make their way out of their tents to sit on top of a hill and watch for bears, all through the night. On the upside, the melting snow beneath our tents and endless hours of rain, gave us all a chance to test our bivi bags–some faring much better than others…

The next day we waited to see what weather the day would bring. Things cleared up and we returned to the glacier to see the “deep blue water” running down tunnels in the ice, and finally a rushing stream dropped deep into the ice below. On our way back to camp we were hit by heavy snow, and on arrival at camp it was clear that the snow was melting beneath our tents.

The decision was therefore made that evening that the next day we would head back to base camp. We had seen and done what came to do and we had been to the glacier, so the feeling was that it was best to get off the mountain while we were all in good spirits rather than stay and face more extreme conditions.

The next morning we packed up the camp early and were off the hill for an eight hour hike back to camp. Resembling a pack of fully laden sherpas we trudged across the moraine at steady pace arriving late evening. We then spent a night at the old Scottish mining hut where we warmed by an old stove and baked bread which brought a comforting end to this mountaineering phases.

Thursday afternoon at BSES HQ we have received the report from Coastal Svalbard that everyone is doing well and making good progress on the glacier and mountaineering skills. The team on the mountain has endured some harsh weather and of course enjoyed the intermittent clear and stable periods, which have been especially important for making summit bids.

Today we are told that the mountaineers of the Coastal Svalbard expedition sheltered in an old mining hut on descent from the peaks bordering the Nordenskioldbreen (pictured below). A unique aspect of Svalbard’s history is the mineral exploration it has experienced over the past century by Russian, Polish, Norwegian, English and Danish prospectors, among others. Since the early 1600s Svalbard’s rich mineral resources have been sought after by tough explorers willing to establish mines or settlements in a harsh environment. Today the traces of these efforts can be seen in the form of derelict shafts and shelters on hillsides.

Below: A kayaker paddles amidst ice blocks at the snout of a Svalbard glacier (stock photo.)

After some intense days at sea and on the mountain, the expedition team has enjoyed rest time at base camp. Bill and Kate prepared pizza for all the YEs by using flat bread and chicken korma. Meanwhile a game of cricket was played out with improvised equipment on a pebble beach beside camp.

Each evening the leaders and YEs have gathered to review progress. On a few occasions the team has witnessed some enormous calving of glacial ice at the snout of the glacier with immense blocks falling into the fjord.

During a satellite call-in kayak leader Kate Emeny reported that the ornithology field project has successfully recorded bird populations and biodiversity data for the Longyearbyen ornithology survey. She explained that the kayak team crossing Billefjorden collected sample specimen from numerous intertidal zones along the coastline.

BSES recieved a phone call with strong signal yesterday, which allowed the Coastal Svalbard expedition to read us messages for the blog. There is an entry for each Fire (’Fire Group’ – the traditional BSES name for a smaller expedition group, originating from groups sat around camp fires). Fire names lists are as follows:

Worsley Fire: Jamie Lock, James Gardiner, Kallan Marshall, Matt Phanichattra, Tom Chapman, Hugh Shields, Anna Williams, Florinda Riall, Gavin Rae, Ali Kapasi. Leaders: Becky Good (science), Sarah Wysling (Doctor).

78 Degrees North Fire: Theo Borgvin Weiss, Luke Samuel, Steffan Danino, Harry Le Breton, Patrick Wright, Nick Seccombe, Rachel Workman, Fran Griffiths, Fraser Munro, Ian Galbraith. Leaders: Blanca San Miguel (Science), Sophie MacDougal-Davis (Doctor).

Mountain Leaders: Rob Cunnington, Mark Hickman, Steve Greaves, Jamie Abbey
Kayak Leaders: Keith Hampton, Bill Taylor, Kate Emeny
Base Camp: Mike Devlin (Chief Leader), Angelika Renner (Chief Scientist).

Adolfbrukta – location of Advance Base Camp (photo by Bartosz)

Worsley Fire – Young Explorer (YE) Update
Upon arrival at Longyearbyen we were greeted with rain and food – one of which was received better than other! The first couple days were spent getting acclimatised to the weather, living with 24hour sunlight (which is incredible!) and collecting kit for out 1st phase which was mountaineering. After a relatively relaxed first few days getting started, we travelled to the Longyearbreen (’breen’ is Norwegian for glacier) to practice and learn mountaineering skills, including rope work and how to use crampons and ice axes.
After the 3 practice days we bivied (slept out in the open) at base camp for night before getting a boat to Advance Base Camp (ABC) on Adolfbukta. From ABC we could look out over the glacier we would be later camping on. When we left we trekked for 8 hours before finding a suitable mountain camp site – a patch of snow! While at Mountain Camp we spent two days doing scientific field research, and climbed a peak to see the most awesome view. After 6 days on the mountain we returned to ABC taking with us amazing experiences and fantastic memories, and we’re now moving to our next phase – kayaking!

78 Degrees North Fire – YE Update
Hello from 78 Degrees North – the kayak group! We are currently at ABC at Adolfbukta after 8 days kayaking in a variety of weather and sea conditions. We arrived two days ago in strong swell and wind but the team battled through even to the extent that Ian decided that it suited his kayaking tastes. We had covered 66km with approx 5-6 hour kayak days. High points include visiting the deserted town of pyramiden and seeing the worlds most northerly grand piano(!), Tunabreen hanging glacier, Harrys heroics in arctic rounders, and wild camping along the fjord. We saw many kinds of wildlife, including an arctic fox who was regular visitor to the camp site, but no polar bears yet! One of the best parts of expedition has been cooking and sitting round the camp fires in the evenings, enjoyed especially by Nick, and we’ve been educated by Stephans wide knowledge of geology. All of us are tired but ready for both the inter-Fire rounders this evening and our mountaineering phase.

The expedition reports that Friday and Saturday the kayakers paddled to the head of Billefjorden.  They landed by Pyramiden settlement during a period of stormy weather.  After waiting out the weather they finally made the last leg of the journey by night, due to calm sea conditions and the hope of reaching the mountaineering camp on schedule.  The kayakers crossed the fjord from Pyramiden to reach the mountaineering base camp late Sunday night.

Meanwhile the mountaineers were wrapping up a successful week on the mountain.  A high camp had been established on the east shoulder of Ferrierfjellet (peak) with tents pitched on an exposed area of moraine.   From this location the climb route was scouted in advance of the ascent day.

The mountaineering team report that summit day was spectacular:  ”Reaching the summit was fantastic, a major highlight in the expedition so far.  We had recce’d the route on a cloudy day but when we climbed the peak it was clear–  The climb went very well and the views from the top were stunning. The YE’s mountaineering skills are very good.   People are really mountain fit now.  At the moment we’re lugging very heavy loads.  We’re heading down the glacier right now to have a good kit shakedown and rest day with the kayakers.  We want to get the equipment dry and sorted for a successful exchange. Everyone is looking forward to meeting up with the other group.”  - Jamie Abbey (Expedition co-ordinator / assistant leader)

(photo 2009 BSES arctic kayak expedition)

Another sat call came in from the field early Tuesday morning as the mountaineers were packing up equipment destined for the high camp.  After a few days of unstable weather, the expedition woke to a sunny day and a clear view up to the peaks of Urmstonfjellet. The peaks to the north east are nunataks, pinnacles of rock that pierce through a vast sheet of ice. The team have been looking to these rocky faces in search of viable mountaineering routes. The plan has been made to spend Tuesday approaching the peaks, heavily laden with equipment that will be cached in a mountain high camp. With food and equipment cached close to the mountain, the chances of successful ascents will be vastly increased.

In the meantime the kayakers have made their first forays onto the water, with the sea state of the fjord cruel to begin with. The expedition leaders report that Monday was a challenging day with high winds. Weather conditions soon grounded the team on shore which will increase the pressure on them to cover distances over the coming days.

A blog update was given via satellite phone at 0930 Monday morning.  Expedition leader and co-ordinator Jamie Abbey made the call from the mountaineering base camp, directly across the fjord from Pyramiden (see photo).  Jamie and the team are camped at the toe of the Nordenskioldbreen (glacier) which is one of the glacial flows coming out of the massive Lomonosovfonna Icefield.  Here is what Jamie reported:

Everyone is fit and well.  The mountaineers have set up their advance base camp across the fjord from Pyramiden.  If you look on a map, there’s a very big glacier across from Pyramiden–we’re there.

The kayakers left Longyearbyen yesterday on an eight day journey in which they will explore numerous fjords and islands along Sassenfjorden.  They will arrive at the mountaineers camp next Monday.

Today the mountaineers are setting off on a recce to get a closer look at the peaks they will climb over the next eight days.  People are in good spirits and feeling well, although the weather in the mountains has been wet and very windy so far.

It has been hard to get a consistent signal for communications, but we’re going to make sure to get good reports back from the field.  The research projects are likely to begin tomorrow. Rob (the leader) arrived as expected and had the final items of science equipment.

Packing the container – 9th June